This Hakone itinerary has everything from misty mountain views to pirate ships. Plus, get to know the Hakone Freepass!
Staring out to the Yumoto Ohashi Bridge from the Ajisai Bridge.
When I first visited Tokyo, I was overwhelmed by the bustle of Shinjuku. Everything from the train stations to the crowds moved at lightning speed 😵💫
So this time, I wanted to slow down and experience Japan at a gentler pace. That’s when I discovered Hakone: just 80 minutes from Shinjuku, this lesser-known gem offers the perfect escape. Think steaming volcanic valleys, cedar-lined paths, lake cruises, and relaxing hot spring ryokans.
Although many visit it as a day trip from Tokyo, I personally found that Hakone is best explored over two days, as this allows you to leisurely enjoy the whole town.
Getting around Hakone
Photo credit: Odakyu Electric Railway
Hakone is best explored in a ‘loop’ — the Hakone Loop — a circular sightseeing route which starts and ends at Hakone-Yumoto Station. You can easily get to main attractions without a car!
For instance, I used a combination of public transportation — train, buses, cable cars, and even a cruise — during my trip:
– Train: Hakone Tozan Train
– Cable Cars: Hakone Tozan Cable Car, Hakone Ropeway
– Cruise: Hakone Sightseeing Cruise
– Bus: Hakone Tozan Bus, “KANKO SHISETS-MEGURI” BUS, Odakyu Highway Bus, Tokai Bus
Travelling around Hakone without a car was truly a treat, as the varied transportation options gave me a chance to sightsee and enjoy postcard-perfect views.
What is the Hakone Freepass?
If you are using public transportation, consider getting the Hakone Freepass! It’s a value-for-money travel pass that gives you unlimited access to public transportation in Hakone without the need for reservations (except for the Romancecar).
It makes navigating the Hakone Loop easy, as you get full access to all transportation provided by the Odakyu Railway Company in Hakone. Moreover, it also covers the base fare for Romancecar train reservations to get you to (and from) Shinjuku and Hakone-Yumoto.
It also offers special offers and discounts to around 70 tourist spots!
Hakone Freepass Types
The price of the Freepass depends on where you depart from (Shinjuku, Machida, Fujisawa, or Odawara) and how many days you use it (2 or 3 days).
| Departure station | Valid for 2 days | Valid for 3 days |
| Shinjuku | ¥7,100 | ¥7,500 |
| Machida | ¥6,820 | ¥7,220 |
| Fujisawa | ¥7,050 | ¥7,450 |
| Odawara | ¥6,000 | ¥6,400 |
*Pro-tip: For an additional ¥1,200, upgrade to the Romancecar, a limited-express train that runs directly from Shinjuku to Hakone. That means a more comfortable and slightly faster journey with reserved seating.
If you’d rather not pay extra, the Freepass already covers the regular Odakyu Line. This route takes about 30 minutes longer than the Romancecar but still brings you to Hakone without additional cost.
Where to purchase the Hakone Freepass
Photo credit: Odakyu Electric Railway
1) Official website: I bought my Hakone Freepass using this method, and honestly found it the most hassle-free option. To use, just scan your QR code — if a reader is available — or present your digital ticket to the staff.
Psst… Save ¥50 when purchasing the e-ticket of Romancecar through EMot Online tickets!
*Note: The ticket you scan or present must be from the official Hakone Freepass purchase site, so make sure you are connected to the internet via WiFi or mobile data.
2) Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center: Located in Shinjuku West Exit and Shinjuku South Exit, buy your Pass over the counter. The staff can also help answer any questions you have!
3) Ticket vending machines: Stations along the Odakyu Line offer an option for you to purchase the Hakone Freepass through the ticket machines.
Day 1
Take the Romancecar to Hakone
When I first heard the name Romancecar, I wondered what could be so “romantic” about a train. Apparently, it came from the armrest-free Romance Seat, inspired by post-war cinemas and cafés where two people could sit close together.
And I can see why they kept the name — even with armrests today, the views of Japan are enough to make you fall in love with the ride.
*Pro-tip: If you’re travelling in a group of four, you can actually swivel the seats to face each other!
Personally, I loved walking up to the front of the train to get the best view.
*Note: Tickets can be purchased from 10AM (Japan time) one month before the date of boarding. So if you have a specific seat in mind — like being seated right in front of the train to enjoy panoramic views — try to book early.
Cost: ~¥1,200/pax with the Hakone Freepass (~S$10) from Shinjuku Station to Hakone-Yumoto Station (¥2,470/pax without the Hakone Freepass)
Operating hours: Departures from 7 AM to 6 PM; runs about 1–3 trains per hour
How to get there: Board the Romancecar at Shinjuku Station (Google Maps)
Have your luggage picked-up at Hakone-Yumoto Station
Upon arrival at Hakone-Yumoto Station, I made my way to the Hakone Luggage Transport service. They helped deliver my luggage to-and-from my accommodation, which saved so much time and energy.
Drop off your luggage before 12PM to guarantee same-day delivery — anything later will only arrive the next day.
*Pro-tip: Skip the queue for drop-off services by reserving online. For pick-up of your luggage at Hakone-Yumoto Station, make arrangements with your accommodation by 10AM, the same day (online reservations for pick-up are unavailable).
Cost: From ~¥1,000/piece (~S$11, varies depending on size and weight)
Opening hours: 8:30AM – 12PM (for drop-off at station), 1:30PM – 6:30PM (for pick-up at station)
Address: 707-1 Yumoto, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0311, Japan
How to get there: Once you alight at Hakone-Yumoto Station, exit the ticket gates and walk to the Hakone Luggage Transport service — next to the Bus and Taxi Exit area (Google Maps)
Explore the Hakone Open Air Museum
For our first stop in Hakone, I hopped on the Hakone Tozan Railway from Hakone-Yumoto Station to Chokokunomori Station, where the Hakone Open Air Museum practically greets you — just a 2-minute walk from the platform.
This museum blew me away with its artworks set against the backdrop of nature. Additionally, the outdoor setting means that installations are larger than those typically found in indoor museums.
Just look at the huge tamago bench above!
My personal favourite definitely had to be the iconic Symphonic Sculpture by Gabriel Loire.
This striking tower of colourful stained glass was not only a great photo-op, but also a piece of art to marvel at from within. The higher up the spiral staircase I climbed, the more I was awed.
Remember not to miss the Picasso Pavilion! You’d be able to see a large collection of the famous Spanish artist’s works right here.
Entrance fee : ¥2,000/pax (~S$18) (¥1,900 with the Hakone Freepass)
Opening hours: 9AM – 5PM (Last entry at 4:30PM)
Address: 1121 Ninotaira, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0493, Japan
How to get there: 2min walk from Chokokunomori Station (Google Maps)
Lunch at Chokoku-no-mori Dining
Tucked inside the Hakone Open Air Museum, Chokoku-no-mori Dining is a relaxed spot, with a huge window that frames the sculptures and nature outside. After a couple of hours wandering around the outdoor exhibitions, settling down here felt like the perfect way to reset. I people-watched and soaked up the art beyond the glass, all while filling my belly with quality Western dishes.
We tried their Beef Sinew Curry, Margherita Pizza, and Salsiccia Tomato Pasta. They were all well-cooked and served promptly, with the pasta standing out for being perfectly al dente.
Opening hours: 10AM – 5PM
Address: 1121-1 Ninotaira, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0407, Japan
How to get there: Within the Hakone Open Air Museum (Google Maps)
Relax at Hakone Gora Park
Just one stop later on the Hakone Tozan Line, I found myself at Hakone Gora Park — a European-style garden with fountains, terraces, and flower beds that contrast beautifully with the mountain backdrop.
The star attraction of the park would have to be the fountain plaza. The meticulously-maintained flowers and shrubbery framed the heart of the park so well.
*Note: The park is closed three times a year for maintenance. Make sure to check if it’s open before you get there!
Opening hours: 9AM – 5PM (Last entry at 4:30PM) from March to November, 9:30AM – 4:30PM (Last entry at 4PM) for December to February
Address: Gora, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0408, Japan
How to get there: 5min walk from Gora Station (Google Maps)
Pottery in Hakone Craft House
Just next to the fountain plaza, I found Hakone Craft House and decided to try my hand at pottery. Led by dedicated craft masters, this activity made my “slow travel” experience in Hakone much more enjoyable.
However, finished pieces for pottery are only shipped domestically after two months! The good news is there are other activities that offer a shorter wait time.
In my case, they let me take home another heart-shaped pottery piece, which I honestly preferred over my own!
Remember to make an online reservation with them in order to experience their activities!
*Note: You’ll need to pay for entry to Hakone Gora Park in order to access Hakone Craft House. But with the Hakone Freepass, the entrance fee for Hakone Gora Park is free 😉
Opening hours: 10AM – 5PM (Last entry at 4:30PM); varies depending on season
Address: 1300 Gora, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0408, Japan
How to get there: Inside Hakone Gora Park, 1min walk from the Gora Park fountain plaza (Google Maps)
Indulge in Hakone Yutowa Ryokan
In Hakone, staying at a ryokan (a traditional Japanese inn, typically with tatami-matted rooms and public baths) is part of the trip experience itself. So by 5PM, I walked to Hakone Yutowa Ryokan and checked-in.
I’d been looking forward to the many amenities they offer, and wanted to afford myself enough time to enjoy them.
This ryokan has everything — from a shared onsen space, to private onsens Iyashi and Wa. IMO, the most notable one was their outdoor spa lounge, Nakaniwa, where you can enjoy a foot bath, and chill with friends in between baths.
And don’t get me started on their buffet dinner, which had an “appetiser buffet” that could pass off as a full meal on its own. There was everything: raw fish carpaccio, fresh prawns, tuna sushi, and a spread of delicate canapés.
Beyond the amazing buffet dinner, the best part of the stay was its shared library lounge.
There’s a manga corner and a library nook. Yes, they have manga in English, too!
Enjoying light snacks, sweets, and an alcohol bar feels so casual and communal, it’s as if the whole ryokan is winding down together.
Cost: From ~￥22,300/night (~S$266, 1 pax)
Address: 1300-27 Gora, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0408, Japan
How to get there: 7min walk from Cafe PIC (Google Maps)
Day 2
View panoramic landscapes at Chikyu no Tani Observatory (Earth Valley)
After checking out of Hakone Yutowa Ryokan, I took the ropeway from Sounzan, which brought me up to Owakudani. Then I headed up to Chikyu no Tani Observatory (Earth Valley) to get a panoramic view of steaming vents and sulfur clouds.
The distinct sulfur smell reminded me that it is an active volcanic zone, and being able to witness the grandeur of this natural occurrence from the observatory was a first for me.
Entrance fee: Free
Opening hours: 9AM – 4:20PM
Address: Sengokuhara, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0631, Japan
How to get there: Take the Hakone Ropeway from Sounzan Station, then alight at Owakudani Station (Google Maps)
Try black eggs at Kurotamago Kan
Just a 1-minute walk from the observatory is Kurotamago Kan, the seller of the famous black eggs (kuro-tamago), which are boiled in sulfuric hot springs to get their unique colour.
They taste just like normal boiled eggs. But the ritual of cracking open that dark shell with the volcanic landscape in the background made it memorable. Legend also says that eating one adds 7 years to your life!
*Pro-tip: They’re sold in packs of four for ~¥500, so it’s best to share with friends (or commit to becoming immortal all on your own).
Cost: ~¥500 (~S$5) for 4 eggs
Opening hours: 9AM – 4PM
Address: 1251 Sengokuhara, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0631, Japan
How to get there: 1min walk from Chikyu no Tani Observatory (Google Maps)
Ride a “pirate ship” along Lake Ashinoko
I continued my journey by taking the Hakone Ropeway from Owakudani to Togendai station.
Being able to admire the near 360-degree view of the volcanic landscape was the moment when I felt like I truly got a bang for my buck on the Hakone Freepass.
After alighting from the Hakone Ropeway, I hopped onto the Hakone Sightseeing Boat, which would get me to the side of the lake where Hakone Shrine was.
The well-decorated pirate theme adds to the fun of crossing Lake Ashinoko.
The 30-minute ride glides past forested slopes, with Mount Fuji peeking out on clear days. I spent most of it out on the deck, letting the mountain air and lake views sink in.
Cost: ¥1,700/pax (~S$15) for a one-way trip (Free with the Hakone Freepass)
Opening hours: 9:30AM – 5PM (Varies by season)
Address: 164 Motohakone, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0522, Japan
How to get there: Take the Hakone Ropeway to Togendai Station, then walk 2 minutes from Hakone Pirate Ship Togendai Port (Google Maps)
Lunch at Unagi Hasegawa
After disembarking at Motohakone-ko Pier, I stopped for lunch nearby at Unagi Hasegawa, a local gem specialising in unagi (grilled eel).
I ordered the ‘Unaju Ichimatsu’ to try their unique method of cooking the eel. They skip the traditional sweet soy-based glaze (tare), and instead, simply season it with with salt before grilling. It was heavenly.
Their unagi is smoky, tender, and served over fluffy rice with just the right amount of sauce. This spot is not the cheapest meal in Hakone — the Unaji Ichimatsu costs ¥4,620 (~S$40) — but the quality makes it unforgettable!
Opening hours: 11AM – 4PM
Address: 6-21 Motohakone, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0522, Japan
How to get there: 1min walk from Motohakone-ko Pier port (Google Maps)
Visit the iconic Hakone Shrine’s Peace Torii
No trip to Hakone is complete without visiting Hakone Shrine and its lakeside Peace Torii.
Unfortunately, the shrine was going through some construction work at the time of my visit. If you do get to go, let us know how good it is in the comments below!
But I can confidently say that the giant red torii gate standing at Lake Ashi was definitely worth queuing 1 hour for. It looks like it’s floating on the water, and the picture you take will bring you back to a simpler, serene time from the past.
*Pro-tip: Factor in time for queuing up, especially during the weekends. Also, try taking your picture with your body in the foreground to cover the crowds — but still having the torii in the background:
Entrance fee: Free
Opening hours: 8:15AM – 5PM
Address: 80-1 Motohakone, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0522, Japan
How to get there: 13min walk from Unagi Hasegawa (Google Maps)
Walk through Hakone’s Ancient Cedar Avenue
A short walk from Hakone Shrine leads you to Old Tōkaidō Road Ancient Cedar Avenue, a preserved stretch of the Old Tokaido Road that once linked Kyoto to Edo.
It was quite magical to be surrounded by tall cedar trees, which created a tunnel-like atmosphere that felt untouched by time.
Walking here gave me a sense of Hakone’s history, which was a beautiful contrast from the modern sightseeing loop.
Ending my walk off at Onshi-koen-mae bus stop, I took the Bus H: Hakone-machi Line for ~36 minutes to head back to Hakone-Yumoto station.
Entrance fee: Free
Opening hours: 24hrs (daytime recommended)
How to get there: 16min walk from Hakone Shrine (Google Maps)
Address: Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0521, Japan (Google Maps)
Unwind at Hakone Yuryo Onsen
To cap off the trip, I visited Hakone Yuryo, one of the area’s most beloved onsens, via free shuttle bus from Hakone-Yumoto station.
It’s open to day visitors, and has spacious indoor and outdoor pools surrounded by trees. If you want privacy, rent a private onsen room with its own open-air bath.
Sitting in the steaming bath while the cool mountain air brushed my face was the perfect to cap off my two days in Hakone!
Entrance fee*: ¥1,700 (Mon – Fri) (¥1,500 with the Hakone Pass), ¥2,000 (Sat – Sun) (¥1,800 with the Hakone Pass)
Opening hours: 10AM – 8PM (Mon – Fri), 10AM – 9PM (Sat – Sun)
Address: 4 Tonosawa, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0315, Japan
How to get there: Take the free shuttle bus from Hakone-Yumoto Station (Google Maps)
* These are prices for public baths. Prices vary for their private onsen room.
Bonus: Things to Do along Odakyu Line
If you’re taking the Odakyu Line Rapid Express train to Hakone, be sure to alight at Noborito Station, Gotokuji Station, and Setagaya Daita Station for fun side trips!
Interact with Doraemon at Fujiko・F・Fujio Museum in Kawasaki City (Noborito Station)
Fans of Doraemon will love Fujiko・F・Fujio Museum, which is dedicated to Mr. Fujiko・F・Fujio, the creator of the iconic manga.
The museum gives a rare behind-the-scenes peek into his craft, and also has a fair share of interactive activities: from getting up close with figures of the characters, to taking a peek at his original desk.
My favourite parts definitely had to be the unique interactive stations, which brought scenes from the manga to life. The AR (augmented reality) station had me hooked for a while, as it let me interact with Doraemon’s home.
I was also amused by the interactive well where you could push on the lever and wind up Big G.
I visited the cafe for lunch, and even the food was so meticulously planned out. I was not expecting the Doraemon curry to be bigger than my head!
*Pro-tip: Look out for Doraemon-themed decor found throughout the Noborito Station (Odakyu Line) too!
Entrance fee: From ¥1,000/pax (~S$9, for 18 years old and above), pre-booking required
Opening hours: 10AM – 6PM (Last entry at 5PM)
Address: 2 Chome-8-1 Nagao, Tama Ward, Kawasaki, Kanagawa 214-0023, Japan
How to get there: After exiting Noborito Station (Odakyu Line), follow the signs for “藤子・F・不二雄ミュージアム.” Then get on the museum’s shuttle. (Google Maps)
Seek luck at Gotokuji Temple (Gotokuji Station)
It’s as if all those lucky cats were silently watching over me!
Gotokuji Temple is said to be the birthplace of the famous maneki-neko, the beckoning cat that symbolises luck. I was greeted by shelves and corners overflowing with hundreds — maybe thousands — of little white cat figurines, all with one paw raised.
In customary luck-seeking fashion, I bought a figurine, made a wish on it, and left it in the temple amongst the other ‘cats’.
Entrance fee: Free
Opening hours: 6AM – 5PM (Temple office hours: 8AM – 3PM)
Address: 2 Chome-24-7 Gotokuji, Setagaya City, Tokyo 154-0021, Japan
How to get there: 12min walk from Gotokuji Station (Google Maps)
Eat a Totoro dessert at Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory (Setagaya Daita Station)
Studio Ghibli fans cannot miss Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory, just a 7-minute walk from Setagaya-Daita Station.
This aesthetic cafe serves generously-filled Totoro-shaped cream puffs that tastes as good as it looks. The only downside is that you’d have to find it in you to stab the Totoro cream puff with your fork.
It was raining on the day I visited, which made the cafe feel especially cosy and conducive for chilling out.
*Pro-tip: They often sell out early, so it’s best to plan a morning stop if you’re passing by.
Opening hours: 10:30AM – 6PM (closed on Tue)
Address: Japan, 〒155-0033 Tokyo, Setagaya City, Daita, 5 Chome−3−1 ２F
How to get there: 7min walk from Setagaya-Daita Station (Google Maps)
Exploring a trendy neighbourhood (Shimo-kitazawa Station)
Shimokitazawa is a charming and vibrant neighbourhood that you can go to without a plan.
Who knows? You might just leave with a bag of thrifted clothes, a sticky-sweet matcha treat, and a vinyl record from the local indie shop.
Go thrifting in Shimokitazawa
I visited two thrift stores, Flamingo and Tanpopo House, which had all sorts of fashionable gems to elevate your wardrobe.
Tanpopo House, especially, had so many amazing deals!
Flamingo (Shimokitazawa Store)
Opening hours: 12PM – 9PM (Mon – Fri), 11AM – 9PM ( Sat – Sun)
Address: Japan, 〒155-0031 Tokyo, Setagaya City, Kitazawa, 2 Chome−25−12 リサビル 1Ｆ
How to get there: 2min walk from Shimo-Kitazawa Station (Google Maps)
Tanpopo House Shimokitazawa
Opening hours: 11AM – 8PM
Address: Japan, 〒155-0031 Tokyo, Setagaya City, Kitazawa, 2 Chome−4−10 プラザ花
How to get there: 3min walk from Shimo-Kitazawa Station (Google Maps)
Visit indie stores in BONUS TRACK
Photo credit: BONUS TRACK
If you’re looking for something more unique, you should definitely check out BONUS TRACK, a well-designed outdoor courtyard with independent speciality stores.
I dropped by a unique record shop called Pianola Records which handles secondhand records, as well as some CDs and tapes!
Opening hours: 8AM – 10PM (For the open space; opening hours for shops vary)
Address: 2 Chome-36-15 Daita, Setagaya City, Tokyo 155-0033, Japan
How to get there: 5min walk from Shimo-Kitazawa Station (Google Maps)
Try unique drinks at Matcha Passport
I couldn’t resist grabbing the flavoured ceremonial-grade matcha drinks at Matcha Passport.
The watermelon matcha I tried was novel, but also easy on the palette. And their strawberry matcha still lives rent-free in my mind even after I’d landed back in Singapore.
Opening hours: 11AM – 12AM
Address: Japan, 〒155-0031 Tokyo, Setagaya City, Kitazawa, 2 Chome−31−14 2nd Floor, Veil Shimokitazawa
How to get there: 2min walk from Shimo-Kitazawa Station (Google Maps)
Have an authentic izakaya experience at Shirubee Shimokitazawa
Don’t miss dinner at Shirubee Shimokitazawa, a tucked-away izakaya, which is also loved by locals.
Aside from their delicious food — like sashimi and oden (Japanese stew) — I experienced an authentic after-work vibe as the locals in the restaurant unwound over drinks and carefree chatter.
Opening hours: 5PM – 11:30PM
Address: 2 Chome-18-2 Kitazawa, Setagaya City, Tokyo 155-0031, Japan
How to get there: 2min walk from Shimo-Kitazawa Station (Google Maps)
Read also: 4D3N Non-Touristy Tokyo Itinerary — Charming Places, Amazing Views, and More
Is the Hakone Freepass worth it?
After spending two full days in Hakone, I can confidently say it’s best enjoyed as more than just a quick day trip. While you can rush through its attractions in a single day, slowing down let me enjoy my trip much more.
*Pro-tip: While I had a lot of fun during summertime, it’s recommended to visit Hakone during autumn season (Oct to Nov) to see stunning fall-coloured leaves and foliage.
While there are many ways to do the Hakone Loop, here are the transportation options I used to get around:
1) Hakone Tozan Railway (Hakone-Yumoto → Gora)
2) Hakone Tozan Cablecar (Gora → Sounzan)
3) Hakone Ropeway (Sounzan → Togendai)
4) Hakone Sightseeing Boat (Togendai → Moto-Hakone)
5) Walking route (Moto-Hakone → Hakone-machi)
6) Hakone Tozan Bus (Hakone-machi → Hakone-Yumoto)
In total, all public transportation (including the Romancecar train ride) would’ve cost me ¥9,210. But with the Hakone Freepass, I only spent ¥7,250 — that means I saved ¥1,960! 🎉
*Note: If you’re riding the Romancecar twice (Shinjuku → Hakone and Hakone → Shinjuku), you would have a total savings of ¥3,230.
More than my savings, the Hakone Freepass was worth it because it made my trip so much smoother. Instead of queuing for tickets at every transfer, I could just present it and hop on — whether it was the train, cablecar, ropeway, or even the pirate ship.
What I didn’t expect was how every ride felt like an attraction in itself: the switchback climbs on the Tozan Railway, the sweeping ropeway views over Owakudani, and drifting across Lake Ashi with Mt. Fuji in the backdrop. Each leg of the loop felt like a highlight, not just a connection.
For me, the Hakone Freepass turned travel into part of the adventure — reminding me to enjoy the journey, not just the destination.
Which of these spots in this Hakone itinerary would you visit? Let us know in the comments below!
This post was brought to you by Odakyu Railway as part of a media familiarisation trip.
